![]() ![]() Once you do this, you are into a new Steering lock, ignition switch plus the tumbler you are replacing.Īgain, I'm going by what I did with a "126" and you should be able to identify these parts by eyeballing your setup. Now you are in a position to turn the ignition from behind using a flat blade screwdriver. Like I said, all these parts are interconnected and the only way I found how to do it is to grind out the bayonet fitting on the steering lock and cut out the 3 screws at the back of the ignition switch to expose the back end of the tumbler assembly. If you can get the Tumbler out without damaging any of the other parts, you can use a screwdriver to turn the switch. When you put the ignition key in '1' position (Accs.) you unlock all these parts together. I got the tumbler from the dealer so I didn't have to carry an extra set of keys. I couldn't find an online part source for 1,2 and 3. The black ring made of hardened steel that locks the tumbler. The switch consists of 4 parts and these could be pricey to replace.ġ. Make sure the guy who is drilling the tumbler knows what he is doing. One of them the tumbler was ok, just the back end of the switch broke. I have 3 older Mercs and all 3 ignition locks/tumblers failed around 125k miles. P, N, R, and D gear selection indicators on the dashboard do not display the correct gear. The shifter can not be returned to Park (P), and you can’t remove the key from the ignition. Mercedes will start, but the transmission won’t go into gear. Mercedes E, S, C, ML-Class gear shift stuck in park. Now that the key is turning, I will order a new tumbler from the dealer on Monday. Mercedes transmission won’t go into drive. You can try moving the wheels by hand to turn the steering and then try to turn the ignition key with both wheels off the ground.Īs for mine, I called the AAA locksmith service yesterday and the Guy coated both sides of the key with locking grease and tried it and the key turned. They dont wear out often and need to be of the Quality commensurate with the engineering in that Engine…which is to say…High Quality.Not sure if you tried this, but one other suggestion is to lift the front of the car off the ground to relieve some pressure on the steering lock. Replacing the plugs probably wont hurt you either…when were they last replaced? Use the OEM plug as well…almost surely some form of Bosch Platinum…or other high quality plug…Do not skimp on the type of Spark Plug. If NO codes…you need to see if you have anything in the plug well that would short the coil to ground. ![]() If you do have an engine code…it will point to the offending plug/coil combo…after that…just replace whatever one is misfiring. Id check for codes and if there are none…pull a few coils and make sure there is no oil in the plug well…or any other liquid. If one of the coils is failing…you should throw a code, but I have seen many engines NOT throw a code when one of the coils shorts to ground (usually from oil in the plug well from a leaking valve cover gasket) When they short to ground you dont get a code bec technically the coil is firing but that energy is going to ground instead of thru the plug. ![]() I believe your engine has coil over plug system…which means No distributor, no spark plug wires…Just coils…over plugs. I would replace the spark plugs and the offending coil. Sounds like one of your ignition coils is beginning to die. ![]()
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